A VISIT TO ICELAND PART III: SELFOSS AND ÞINGVELLIR NATIONAL PARK

 

Sadly overlooked by those dividing Iceland as a land of mountains and rivers and one city is the charming town of Selfoss in the southern part of the country. With a population of only 10,000 Selfoss nonetheless is a vibrant little place with all the interests and picturesque pleasantries of a small coastal town. Indeed, Selfoss makes one of the strongest cases I’ve yet seen for the lush haunting beauty of gray skies and wind chill.

Located some thirty minutes from the cabin where I spent two nights of my travels, Selfoss was the closest stop for gas and provisions. Almost upon arrival I became aware of how deeply te town embraces the spirit of Halloween. My first stop was Almar Bakari, a vintage style bakery with the usual coffee and pastry offerings. Their display cases containing cinnamon rolls, cakes and cookies were lined with artificial autumnal leaves and a grinning jack-o-lantern. For my money, the ham and cheese croissants were among the best I’ve tried but their bakery options are diverse, including pizza croissants.

Located in the same parking lot as Almar Bakari is one of the twenty-six Krónan supermarkets, a national chain. Here too I was greeted with reminders of the season, witches were on display and a whole aisle was dedicated to Halloween candy.

Without a doubt, however, the highlight of southern Iceland is Þingvellir National Park. Like a lot of Iceland it is a place of stunning beauty, but unique in that ancient history lives on. It was in these mossy hills and rocky canyons that Iceland’s parliament was formed some fifty years after Norwegian chieftain Ingólfr Arnarson first settled in Iceland in 874. Here in Þingvellir the general assembly would remain until 1271. During its rule, the assembly passed laws, ruled on violations and even elected religious leaders. As expected this system of supreme power soon began to crumble as chieftains began to form factions and battle for power, resulting in Iceland coming under the rule of the Norwegian crown were it would remain until 1662 when Iceland was transferred to the Danish monarchy.

Although there was never a permanent settlement in Þingvellir, during the months of the assembly it was a thriving community of merchants, farmers, politicians, soldiers and religious figures. At night, festivities and celebrations were held. Remnants of the temporary structures built to house visitors continue to dot the park.

Although parliament moved from Þingvellir in 1798, the area remains a major draw to visitors not only for its cultural heritage but for its tranquil natural beauty. Established as a national ark in 1930, Þingvellir

A few historic summer homes as well as a church built in 1907 are practically the only structures in the park and are surrounded by the Öxará river which winds through the park culminating in Öxarárfoss waterfall and the Silfra Lake which has become a popular spot for scuba divers. A number of bridges are scattered through Þingvellir enabling visitors to cross the river and canyon and circle around the park.




If for no other reason, Þingvellir is worth visiting to be towered by the rocks of the rift valley. Perhaps the greatest service nature offers humanity is humility. When we are dwarfed by nature we are reminded of our place in our lively planet.

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