MAUI’S GARDEN OF EDEN
Maui’s Garden of Eden Arboretum is worth visiting if only for the ride up through Highway 360, which, once ascended high enough, offers spectacular views of the island. It was a ride I needed to take before I left Maui. The one thing I lamented, after all, during my visit to Maui was the diminished presence of Hawaiian culture and authenticity. After decades as a paradise for the wealthy, Maui, as I suspect of much of Hawaii, has shed its traditional identity for the resorts, mansions and watering holes common to many tropical playgrounds around the equatorial belt.
I make this judgement with the understanding that what I saw was but a fraction of Hawaii and for only a brief stay. I was told afterward that the authentic Hawaiian spirit is alive and well in the larger islands. Be that as it may, I was grateful to catch a bit of it on my way up Hana Highway, away from the built up and streets of Kihei, where bungalows, huts, local farmers and tall trees marked the way to the Garden of Eden.
Let me say at once that the Garden of Eden is one of the most beautiful botanical gardens I have visited, offering amazing vistas. Walking through its paths under the shade of massive boughs offers a tranquility unparalleled. However, I must note with some regret that it too falls victim to the mentality of conservation as showmanship that has inflicted not only Hawaii but many zoological and botanical gardens throughout the world.
This was noticed as early as 1970, when Joni Mitchell, in her hit “Big Yellow Taxi”, expressed so somberly, “They took all the trees, and put 'em in a tree museum, and charged the people a dollar and a half just to see 'em.” That specific reference was to Honolulu’s Foster Botanical Garden but the sentiment can still be seen. As beautiful and environmentally conscious as many of these gardens are (and the Garden of Eden is proud to be largely pesticide and herbicide free), conservation is compromised for commerce. Gaden of Eden offers protected space for Maui’s native flora and bird life, but it is also a flower zoo with many exotic plants marking the pathways.If I sound overly critical it is because Hawaii has so much to offer from its own native plants that it is a pity to see space devoted to imports. This is, however, a peripheral consideration. The Garden of Eden is, to be clear, a jewel in Maui and well worth a visit. As infectious as I found the life in Kihei I found solace in the quiet ponds and among the dark underpasses of the trees. Ducks and peacocks (not indigenous to Hawaii) traverse the paths along with visitors. The very moment one passes the iconic entry way welcoming cars, a wall of serenity falls on visitors.
But the real treasure of the Garden of Eden are the lookout points throughout the garden. From any one of them, guests can see the bluest waters stretching out beyond the horizon as they surround the island. This is the romance of the Hawaiian Islands that has mesmerized its earliest inhabitants, explorers and travelers to this day, not only the beauty within but what it reminds us of our world. It is a land of vibrant natural colors, gentle breezes and nature at its most welcoming, and yet the surrounding waters of the Pacific remind us that it is only one small part of a larger world with no shortage of natural splendor for those who seek to find.
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