AN ODE TO DUNKIN’S SUGAR RAISED: THE SILENT DISAPPEARANCE OF A STAPLE
It’s no
McRib in that in Dr. Frankenstein’s of the food corporate world resurrect it
annually nor is it the Choco Taco that went away with much fanfare leaving
behind more than a few broken hearts. No, Dunkin’s sugar raised donut became a
beloved item by embracing simplicity.
How
best to describe it? It’s not hard. Think of the glazed donut with the sugar
used on the jelly donut. That was all it was and that was all it needed to be.
It was the perfect offering for when you just wanted a simple donut with added
sugar.
Looking
back, my favorite donut said a lot about me as a child. My palette for dessert
was simple. Soda was generally not brought into my home, I only ever saw Coke
or Pepsi in our fridge when my parents were expecting company, and fast food
was a rarity. No wonder I never developed a throbbing sweet tooth. Nonetheless,
Dunkin Donuts was a frequent stop for my father who needed his caffeine before
heading out to the construction site. I still recall our little in-joke when he
would send me in to buy him his coffee. “Cream-no-sugar” became our code for
Dunkin Donuts’s coffee once I memorized the way he liked it. And whenever a
stop at Dunkin Donuts was announced, there was only one donut I asked for, the
sugar raised. It just hit the spot, just right.
And
then, at some point, I couldn’t even tell you when exactly, the sugar raised
began disappearing from the donut shelves. Its discontinuation was never
announced and rumors persist that it is still around in those elusive “specific
locations”. In my search for reliving (albeit on a much smaller scale; that
little circle of calories can do more damage to me at 43 than it did at 5) I
stumbled into a rabbit-hole of Dunkin methods that partially explains what
happened to the sugar raised.
You
see, there is a list of required donuts that each Dunkin (franchised or
otherwise) must stock each day. The rest is at the discretion of the manager
and it is often based on local tastes. Through this method, Dunkin gradually
spurred the disappearance of the lemon donut as well as one I always liked, the
butternut. And this too, likely, spelled the disappearance of the sugar raised.
I guess
less people liked it than I thought or maybe it was simply too plain to compete
against the sugary richness of maple frosted or Boston crème. There are other
companies that make their own version of the sugar donut but Dunkin’s sugar
raised was an unparalleled bit of perfection in simplicity, the literal sweet
spot in sugar for the kid that didn’t need an overkill of cream or jelly
squirting out of the dough.
In my
adult life I’ve come to frequent on Dunkin’s for my own caffeine fuel and
through the years I’ve seen there menu change (they even dropped “Donuts” from
their name in 2019 to emphasize their greater variety of offerings) and I do
have my go-to selections. Still, the sugar raised formed my earliest memories
of Dunkin Donuts and, if internet stories are true, in some magenta and orange
donut shop somewhere they are waiting for a revival.
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